Tequila time: why Mexico’s signature spirit is having a moment | Rediscover tequila

Tequila, the agave-derived spirit born in the Mexican town that shares its name, has long been associated in the UK with poor-quality shots. But that’s old news. After years of being sidelined and misunderstood, tequila is now one of the fastest-growing spirits categories in the UK, with a rising number of consumers recognising it as a versatile and delicious craft spirit – one to be enjoyed and savoured.

Consejo Regulador del Tequila – the organisation responsible for protecting the drink’s denomination of origin – reported that 1.7m litres of tequila were shipped to the UK in 2020. John Vine, spirits buyer at Waitrose, says that the company saw tequila sales grow by more than 127% from 2019 to 2021. “Celebrity endorsements from people such as George Clooney and Kendal Jenner have helped raise awareness of the category and bring in a new audience,” he explains. “People are increasingly realising that it is versatile, refreshing in cocktails, and not just for shots.”

Carlos Fontoira, head of bars at boutique Mexican restaurant chain El Pastor, says that it’s a trend he’s seen first-hand. “Over the years at El Pastor I’ve witnessed our guests getting more into tequila,” he says. “They’re moving away from thinking of it as only for shots and starting to consider its possibilities as a premium sipping spirit. They’re also more willing to try different tequila cocktails.”

But why has it taken British drinkers so long to embrace Mexico’s signature spirit? “I think tequila has always been the odd one out for consumers in the UK,” says Daniele Umoette, ambassador for el Jimador’s 100% blue agave tequila. “Consumers in the UK are more used to scotch, gin and rum because of the historical ties this nation has with such spirits.”

Tequila, particularly el Jimador, is worthy of note though, Umoette says. “El Jimador is produced at Casa Herradura, our distillery in the town of Amatitán, Mexico. Despite being relatively young as a brand [launched in 1994], we have 152 years of distilling knowledge from our sister brand Herradura. El Jimador is a 100% agave tequila and that speaks volumes about its quality. Its wild fermentation also contributes to generating its beautiful flavour.”

The percentage of agave – a succulent, which is often mistaken for a cactus due to its spiky leaves – is the difference between a poor-quality tequila and a good one, explains Ruben Aceves, global brand ambassador of Casa Herradura. “When tequila is made from 100% agave, it means there are no other sugar sources within it. So, if a tequila has only 51% agave juices, the other 49% can be from any neutral spirit, from whichever fermentable source such as corn, wheat, sugar cane, or a blend of them. And this can be done without having to explain it to the consumer.”

Equally, the process and quality control of the individual distillery is vital to the end result. At el Jimador’s iconic distillery, for instance, the production process begins with seven-year-old agave plants, which are harvested by hand by jimadors (farmers). “We then run the agave through blades to cut it into very tiny pieces and run those through the diffuser; this is a very efficient milling device which extracts all the possible agave juice,” says Aceves. “After a diffusion process, agave juice is collected and cooked in stainless steel pressure cookers. This loads the sweet agave juice with sugar.”

The next step is fermentation, which at el Jimador is a completely natural process, using only wild airborne yeast from the agave plantations and fruit trees surrounding the distillery. “After fermentation is done in our open tanks, we get a 6% ABV [alcohol by volume] agave juice. Now the sugar is gone, and the alcohol appears with lots of beautiful, tasty flavours and a unique aroma that’s easy and pleasant to enjoy.”

From here, the liquid is distilled twice, the minimum requirement for a tequila, resulting in a 55% ABV blanco tequila that’s clear, flavourful, and smooth. It’s then made into a range of different ABVs, depending on each country’s rules.

“Once the ABV is adjusted with clean, beautiful water, it’s aired for some hours and then bottled as a blanco or sent to ageing if it is going to be a reposado or añejo. The ageing process for el Jimador is done in white American oak barrels, which are specially made for us,” Aceves adds. “The barrels are made in Kentucky USA; they are toasted, charred and have a 200-litre capacity.” Aceves feels passionately that it’s this chain of small details and quality control that makes el Jimador so special, with such a distinct and delicious profile.

So, what’s the most modern way to enjoy tequila according to the experts? Of course, a zingy margarita made with freshly squeezed lime juice is always popular – in fact, research found that it was the second most Googled cocktail recipe in the early months of the UK’s first lockdown. However, for a more authentic experience, Umoette suggests the Paloma, Mexico’s preferred tequila cocktail. “This drink is a combination of tequila, pink grapefruit juice, agave syrup, a squeeze of lime and a dash of soda water, served in a salt-rimmed highball glass,” he explains. “The citrus and bright notes from our wild fermentation complement the peppery and spicy flavours of the Mexican cuisine beautifully, making it a perfect cocktail for sharing with food.”

However you choose to drink it, Vine urges that you start with a high-quality, authentic tequila. “If you are looking at it for cocktail-making, you should opt for a blanco or reposado. For sipping, you’re looking at an añejo,” he says. “And always, 100% blue agave should be your starting point.”

Discover the vibrant taste of modern Mexico for yourself with el Jimador’s 100% blue weber agave tequila. Buy everything you need to start your authentic tequila journey here

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