How to get under the skin of Mexico City’s coolest neighbourhood, Roma

Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.

On the southwesterly edge of CDMX (Mexico City)’s historic centre of sprawling architectural diamonds and exhilarating bustle lies more of the same. One of 21 barrios mágicos (‘magic neighbourhoods’) in the city, La Roma nestles within CDMX’s wider Cuauhtémoc borough and contains all the darlings that a mini-break begs for. More often though, this dear spot is just called Roma. It’s at once quaint and grandiose, and it’s still changing and shifting in personality.

Until the late Noughties, this dilapidated area was recovering from a lot of crime. A big city cleanup and heavy investment saw old beauties come to life and now the facades are a famed colourful feature of the capital.

There are towering listed buildings, sparkling parks of palms and jacarandas, excellent galleries, well-balanced traditional markets, world-class restaurants and delectable stays. It’s such good fun, and you won’t walk 30 seconds before you pass the daintiest taco of your life, followed by a mezcal bar to unwind in. Roma is teeming with hip Mexican creative types and expats – most streets spill over with restaurants, bars, cafes and boutiques.

Here’s how to make the most of a day in this iconic neighbourhood.

Do

Wander and take photos

CDMX’s Roma is no secret – you may have seen the 2018 Oscar-winning movie named after it. The ’hood is made up of two halves, Roma Norte and Roma Sur – both gloriously walkable and close to major metro stops. An earthquake in 1985 almost flattened a lot of Spanish colonial buildings, but fortunately much of the area’s elegant old townhouses are prettily preserved – wander, get your bearings and peer through imposing wrought iron gates.

Reminiscent of the magnificent Hunterian Museum in London or the bizarre Museum of Things in Berlin, this “Museum of the Object” is a sight for curious eyes. Sometimes tactile, often mindbending, this space charts the history of everything from food and drink to scientific instruments in ever-changing, conversation-sparking exhibitions.

Go to market

Mexico City’s liveliest food markets – though wonderful and highly recommended – may feel a tad overwhelming, from their crowds to the sheer amount of options. At the other end of the spectrum, Mercado Roma is a delight – it’s indoors, meticulously clean and curated a little more for tourists and families. Be sure to say yes to the delicacy of all delicacies, chapulines, or fried grasshoppers – often served as a crunchy garnish atop quesadillas or as a nut alternative with a cold beer. Lightly tossed in hot oil and seasoned with garlic and lemon, they’re a must-try snack.

Learn about Leonora

Dive into the world of the British-Mexican Surrealist, Leonora Carrington, at her home and studio turned museum on Calle Chihuahua, newly opened as of 2021 (a decade after her passing). Divine contrasts between light and dark and a story rich with bizarre and brilliant discoveries are poured into this bijou museum. It’s a botanist’s dream, too: plants spill over each white floor and wall, nestled between some 8,000 works. Cuarón’s Roma was shot just two streets away – close to where the filmmaker himself resides.

Eat

Mercado de Medellín

This mini-market in Roma Sur is not to be missed. Alongside its Cuban bites (the ice cream is dreamy), it’s also a haven for Colombian cuisine, as well as plenty of Mexican offerings you won’t find anywhere else. Medellín #20, Cuauhtémoc, 06760

Panadería Rosetta

This bakery is the little sister of Mexico City’s fine dining establishment Rosetta, created by world-renowned chef Elena Reygadas. Hit the cheese and guava pastries and you’ll regret nothing – then take some more with you for your plane ride home. Colima 179, Roma Nte

At Por Siempre Vegana, the almighty taco is reimagined, meat-free, by Luis Rodríguez and Melissa Ayal, hitting all the right flavour points with no meat or dairy involved. Chillies, fresh herbs, spices and vegan cheese stacked upon marinated mushroom and other proteins prevail.

There are plenty of fancy dining rooms across CDMX. The aforementioned Rosetta, fish specialist Contramar and Maximo Bistrot are just three of the most sought-after options in Roma – all three were raved about by popstar Dua Lipa in her recent newletter. But Maximo’s tasting menu puts it ahead of the pack for a spendy dinner – book ahead but select bar-dining for a more raucous and chatty feel. The full dinner including wine is under £200 – expect decadent dishes such as gratinated comté, octopus ceviche and wagyu beef tongue.

Drink

Sip your mezcal margaritas with chilli-worm salt in hand at the streetside tables of this Roma hangout – it has heating lamps for rare nippy nights. Go with the house recommendations – the best and smokiest mezcals are from Oaxaca – and don’t skimp on the salt. On Thursdays, head to Mama Rumba for a dance class afterwards.

Brooklyn or Berlin-like with its unassuming, industrial exterior, Supra is drastically unornate in comparison to the Baroque and Bauhaus facades seen across the rest of Roma. Londoners will recognise the carpark-but-make-it-cocktails vibe from Frank’s in Peckham, accompanied by sunshine, DJs, plants, twinkling lights and sparkling conversation.

Shop

This fashion house is not just set on producing ethical clothing (employing people indigenous and mestizo communities and dedicated to preserving textile legacies); it also creates work that’s entirely influenced and enriched by national culture and history. The designs first came to notoriety for their clear homage to architect Luis Barragán. The clothes are lovely, gender-fluid and mostly one-size-fits-all in their free-flowing state.

To-emigrate-for wardrobes, chests, chaise lounges and antiques can be found at Piezas Unicas. The treasures here are next level, the people watching is unbeatable and you can chat interiors, art and design with the sellers from dawn till dusk. An abundance of books, trinkets and glassware fit for your carefully packed suitcase awaits.

Stay

Request the Terazza suite, with a bed on rails so you can shift it to the balcony and sleep under the stars – or book La Luna with its giant spinning moon installation separating living room and bedroom. A mirrored, marbled bathroom can be found down a long corridor, with a roll top bathtub and all amenities. Whichever of its handful of exclusive rooms you bag, the vibe at this unassuming townhouse is low key and private, including a continental breakfast that’s brought to your room. Doubles from £208, B&B. lavalise.com

Book here

Close to the Metro and Colonia Roma, this not-quite-hostel is decidedly no frills, with none of the Art Deco opulence of its surrounding buildings – but its cubish cuteness is bright and clean, with fast WiFi, a good gym, strong air con and even suite upgrades for not much at all. Doubles from £33, room only. hotelesmx.com

Book now

Getting there

Trying to fly less?

Committed flight-free folks could get a train to Rotterdam in order to catch the cargo ship to Houston, Texas. From here you can take one bus to Queretaro and another on to Mexico City.

Fine with flying?

British Airways and Aeromexico fly direct to Mexico City from the UK, with many more airlines connecting.